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A 30-Second Magic just for Tips on how to Develop Make Dissertation

A 30-Second Magic just for Tips on how to Develop Make Dissertation

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Monster day at Bells, Easter 1965

Rod Brooks describes the monster day at Bells with waves at “fractionally over 20 ft.” In April 1974 Ted Bainbridge interviewed Brooks for a Breakway magazine special on the Bells Easter contest.
At the time Brooks was managing Klemm-Bell Surf Shop in Torquay. A year later Brooks and Fred Pyke would launch Piping Hot wetsuits, another business from the small Victorian seaside town to become a global player in the surf industry.
Bainbridge asked about the famous Bells waves and Brooks recalled 28 straight days of “over 6ft. and perfect”.
He said the most memorable Bells contest was in 1965, “the biggest and probably the most exceptional time at Bells.
“There have been days that big but there hasn’t been the number of people there to take advantage of it. On that particular occasion, top surfers from all over Australia were there and it was probably as big as it ever gets.
“I’d say fractionally bigger than 20 ft., but certainly 20. This was only on one particular morning then eventually it closed out on the low tide. The wind went around from N.W. in the morning, banking west all day and also the waves tended to wall across to WinkyPop.
“Robert Kenneally won and Nat Young came second. Jeff Watt, from Torquay, was third.”

BREAKWAY APRIL 1974

Cheyne Horan nicknamed Kid Dynamo

They called him Kid Dynamo and why not? Cheyne Horan was Australian senior schoolboy surfing champion and Coke Australian Open Skateboard champion when he featured in this O’Neill wetsuit advertisement in Breakway surfing magazine, October 1976.

He was sitting for his School Certificate among other activities like surfing, skateboarding, ice skating, playing competitive ice hockey – and shaping and making boards in the backyard of his parents’ home.

It was the launch year of pro surfing’s first tour and 16-year-old Horan finished seventh in the Sydney Surfabout.

He finished runner-up to Wayne Bartholomew in the 1978 world title, winning the Waimea 500. At the start of 1990 he won the Billabong contest, the final event of the pro surfing season. He collected $50,000 for the win.

The world class surfer, who at 10 started riding a Coolite at Bondi, was inducted into Australia’s Surfing Hall of Fame in 2007.

Today he owns Cheyne Horan’s School of Surf in Surfers Paradise, Qld.

Ocean & Earth founder Brian Cregan interviewed at 20

Ocean & Earth was started by Brian Cregan and some partners in Sussex Inlet, NSW, back in 1978 and made some basic surfing products. By the late ‘80s Ocean & Earth’s products had grown to a broad range of surfing accessories, backpacks and a small range of clothing.
In 2010 O&E released the “World’s Strongest Leash” – a fully moulded surf leash as opposed to three piece heat welded surf leash. Cregan’s introduction to urethane leashes happened in Durban, South Africa, when Shaun Tomson (IPS world champion in 1977) showed him the cord he was using.
“He gave me the address of where to get it and I bought back to Australia a roll to experiment with,” Cregan told an interviewer.
“From there we sourced it locally and then introduced urethane leashes into our range and the Australian market.”
Three years before the launch of Ocean & Earth, Breakway interviewed Cregan, then 20, during a trip to Bali where he was filmed for Harry Hodge’s movie Liquid Gold. This was July,1975.
He talked about leg ropes, professional surfing and even hinted at making a living from what he loved doing.
Cregan obviously relished the hollow, powerful Bali waves. And his surfing was impressive.
Riding his own boards, “Cool Curl Cruisers”, he was by far the best backhand surfer at Uluwatu.
Breakway: How big have you ridden Uluwatu?
I’ve ridden three times since I’ve been here. The first time it was a small 6 ft. the second time just a little larger and yesterday it was a solid 8 ft. with some 10 footers. There were two big sneaker sets about 14′ ft. I reckon. The first one broke in front of us and washed us way back down the line. I had a leg rope on and it pulled out the metal pin in the rope box. Luckily a guy got my board before it was battered against the cliff. Later there were only three of us out and another set with about ten waves poured through. We all managed to scratch over them. I think I was more scared the second time because I knew how hard they could hit. I think Harry Hodge got them on film for his movie.
Breakway: Is it like anything you’ve ridden before?
There’s a place on the south coast which definitely breaks in a similar way. It has as much power I think but more predictable, a shorter ride but as tubey as Uluwatu.
Breakway: Why do you make your own surfboards?
I never used to get exactly what I wanted from the guy who used to make them for me. I thought I’d be able to get closer to what I wanted by making them myself. The first couple worked all right and I’ve kept improving on them. I enjoy riding my own boards. It’s a fulfillment – you feel good riding a board you’ve made yourself.
Breakway: Would you like to make boards full time?
Maybe not for 12 months of the year, but through the summer it’d be feasible. I just enjoy being creative in my spare time and there’s not much to do weeknights in Sussex.
Breakway: What’s your opinion of professionalism in surfing?
It’s really great – for surfing in general and for the good surfers. It’s bringing surfing to older people and those who don’t surf. I think guys have got to understand that being a professional doesn’t mean just winning money in contests, it’s a whole lot of other things like endorsing products, appearing in movies and even shaping surfboards. At the moment it’d be fairly hard for a surfer to live solely from pro-contests.
Breakway: Would you like to become a professional surfer?
I think a lot of people would.
Breakway: Have you ever won any money?
I won a surfboard once; at Woolongong about two years ago, I just missed out on a trip to New Zealand. It was called the Aquarius festival.

FOR THE FULL INTERVIEW, BUY THE JULY, 1975, ISSUE OR COMPLETE SET.

Chairmen of the Boards

As the ‘70s dawned three successful surf related businesses kicked off on the Mornington Peninsula. They were leg rope pioneer Balin, Trigger Bros Surfboards and Peninsula Surf Centre, headed by Ted Bainbridge. The three successful operations have been profiled in peninsula-based magazine BusinessTimes.

READ THE STORY IN BUSINESS TIMES.

Memories of the Pipeline pioneers

This is all about the Pipeline pioneers, surfing history, vintage surfing at its best.

Breakway covered surfing in ‘70s when memories of the first big wave riders at Banzai Pipeline were still fresh in our minds.

 

When you think of Banzai Pipeline you think of Lopez, Russell, Bertleman and the other latter day surf heroes. But what about the days when Pipeline was only ridden by a few? When Pipeline meant risking your life? When Pipeline wasn’t even ridden.

A nostalgic trip back into the “good old” surfing mags revealed the early days at the Pipe when surfers would stand for hours on the beach and watch in awe as these monstrous sucking giants threw out over a shallow coral shelf after travelling thousands of miles across the Pacific in huge swells.

Compared to Pipeline, Waimea Bay and Sunset were comparatively “safe” surfing spots. To even contemplate riding Pipeline was a long thought about affair.

Back in the early ‘60s Phil Edwards and a few of his hardy mates ventured out to the super-hollow lefthander followed by the ‘heavy’ of all big wave riders, the legendary Greg Noll.

And remember these guys rode cumbersome and heavy boards that lacked the speed of today’s guns!

However, back in those golden days, one man conquered the Banzai Pipeline like no-one else could – Butch Van Artsdalen. Van Artsdalen didn’t worry about those bottom- scraping wipeouts or huge drops down the vertical face at the take off. For every ride the ordinary person got at the Pipe, Butch got five. And four of them would be· bad wipeouts!

Van Artsdalen would slide down the face of a gnarly 15 ft. wall sideways, then push out through a spitting Banzai tube until he was speeding in front of the pursuing white water.

Pipeline held for Van Artsdalen what Everest must have nurtured for Hillary or America for Columbus. But although the Pipe is ridden by many these days, one can always reminisce about the “Good Old Days” when the long board surfers would paddle out at 15 ft. Pipeline, not knowing whether they would ever make it back to shore.

 

BREAKWAY JULY 1974

Quiksilver story: the Greens, an album and Rick Griffin

According to The Quiksilver Story, a book by former Tracks editor Phil Jarratt, Barbara Green came up with the name for the iconic board short brand in 1970. She’d read a definition of the word quicksilver which matched the personality of her boyfriend (and later husband) Alan Green who founded the Quiksilver company.

The name was also inspired by a favourite album of Alan and Barbara by San Francisco psychedelic rock band Quicksilver Messenger Service.

On page 47 of the The Quiksilver Story, there is a copy of an advert from the November 1974 issue of Breakway. The caption reads “first print advertisement” In fact, Quiksilver took the inside back cover of the April 1974 issue, advertising their sheepskin jackets and ugg boots.

Their first board short advertisement in Breakway was a quarter page featuring the ‘mountain and wave’ logo with the title ‘NUMERO UNO’ in the August 1974 issue. On the opposite page is a cartoon by Paul Harris titled Cruisinon. Harris’s creative mentor was the Californian artist, Rick Griffin, and much of his drawing style and inspiration for his Breakway cartoons came unashamedly from Griffin’s work. As homage, Harris drew a portrait of Griffin in the top right of the Cruisinon cartoon. Interestingly, the portrait’s eyes appear to be looking across at the Quiksilver board short advertisement. Artwork for the Quicksliver Messenger Service album that was sitting on Green’s turntable in 1970 was designed by Rick Griffin, who, as well as designing the masthead for Rolling Stone magazine, started the Murphy cartoon strip for Surfer magazine in 1961. Did Barbara Green also get a subliminal message when she came up with Quiksilver’s brand name?

Runaway boards caused safety concerns

Keith Platt, writing in Breakway (May ’74), canvassed the problems associated with runaway boards and moves by safety organisations to mandate board design, outlawing pointed noses and sharp fins. The universal take-up of leg ropes and separation of swimmers and surfers at popular beaches headed off the confrontation.

 

As the number of people using surf beaches increases, so will the number of problems facing boardriders. Boardriding as a sport tends to make its followers oblivious to the many laws of man and acutely aware of the laws of nature.

It’s easy to flow with and accept the laws of nature, but man-made laws tend to hit the unwary with an uncomfortable crunch…

And if boardriders do not watch out, they may be hit hard from two directions:

  • The Australian Standards Association is presently looking into board design with a view to making boards “safer.”
  • The National Safety Council of South Australia wants board riding banned on all Adelaide beaches.

Efforts are already being made to approach the Standards Association to put surfers’ points of view and if possible stop a ban being placed on pointed boards and sharp fins.

But no organised action agalnst a possible boardriding ban has been announced.

Unless surfers get together to fight possible limitations on their sport they may find the rules being set by outsiders.

The call for a ban on boardriding on Adelaide beaches came from a Mr Colin Daddow, president of the safety council. He made this statement in a South Australian daily newspaper after reports of swimmers being injured by “lost” boards.

Mr Daddow said: “Surfboards should be banned from all beaches where conditions are ideal for swimmers.”

Meanwhile, surfers being an uncaring lot while waves continue pumping through will leave all the hassle to others and probably wake up one day to find themselves ordered to use only round-nosed foam rubber boards on a specially preserved reef break off the north-west coast of Tasmania each August.

 

Read the whole article in BREAKWAY MAY 1974

Buy a digital copy of the magazine or download the entire set.